Saturday, 17 August 2013

Thursday, 25 August 2011

Day 59 - Halifax!

Google maps said it was 160 km to Halifax, so I got an early start, snarfing down the free breakfast at the motel and heading out into the chilly 7:40 air.

The day had its share of surprises.  I took the 104 to Truro and then turned onto route 2 there.  Surprise number one came in Truro when I received a text message from Angela asking if I was going to be going through Bedford.  I had been planning to go through Dartmouth but I changed my plans because she said she was making a sign.

Surprise number two was all the construction going on on route 2.  I had to wait at a couple of construction zones, and after waiting there is always the exhilaration of getting through the zone before traffic starts coming the other way.

Surprise number three was all my former coworkers who came out to greet me on the Bedford Highway as I rolled through.  How's this for a warm reception!


As I was talking to the crew, I was boasting about how my rear tire had gone the whole trip without a single flat. Well, can you guess what surprise number 4 was? Yup, about 5 minutes down the road, I heard the dreaded pffft of air escaping from my rear tire.  But, surprise number 5 happened when Mark showed up on his mountain bike, having been tipped off my Angela that I was on my way.  We chatted for a while as I changed my tire and tried to pump it up with my woefully inadequate pump.  Surprise number 6 was that Mark had a real bike pump in his car, about 10 minutes down the road.  I made it there with 40 psi in the tire and topped it up to the usual 110 psi to finish the ride.  Thank you, Mark!


Coming into Halifax was great.  Riding down familiar tree-lined streets like Connaught Avenue, I had a real feeling of being home.  The final act was to take my bike to Point Pleasant Park and dip the wheels in the Atlantic.  A curious bystander was happy to capture this fantastic moment on my camera.


So, that's it!  There are a few things that were incredibly valuable on this trip.  First, I would like to thank the makers of Zincofax for (literally) saving my butt.  Also, I have to give a shout out to Subway restaurants.  And, last but not least, thanks to everyone who read and commented on the blog and emailed as I made my way across the country.  It helped a lot to share the experience on the blog, so I never felt like I was alone.


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Tuesday, 23 August 2011

Day 58 - New Glasgow

Today's route was almost exactly the reverse of yesterday. I feel like a shark circling its prey (Halifax). The winds were high again today and for the first half of the ride I seemed to be riding straight into it most of the time. That foiled my plan to catch a glimpse of the tour riders coming over the causeway. They were probably long gone by the time I got there.


Riding over the causeway was not the most fun due to the extreme crosswinds and no paved shoulder. Fortunately, a truck driver was kind enough to to wait, holding up a train of cars behind him (or her).

Outside Antigonish, I stopped at the Dragon Fly Cafe, as recommended by a secret inside source. I had the ham and swiss panini and pasta salad, and it could very well have been the best lunch I've had this summer.

From there I continued on the same old 104 I had traveled yesterday. The ride was about 10 k shorter than I expected and that always makes for a refreshed feeling at the end of the day. Currently I'm relaxing at the Tara motel (it's on the rustic side but it'll get the job done), hoping for an early start to the grand finale tomorrow.

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Day 57 - River Bourgeois

It was a day of goodbyes as I left the Tour Trans Canada group to finish my personal goals. The gang of four did one last ride together to the Linwood campsite, taking the shortest possible route along the 104, shaving over 30 km from the Bud route. That made my total about 140 for the day. Here we are, head-on for once:


It was extremely breezy today and whenever we headed south we got one of the stiffest headwinds we've seen on the whole trip. Overall, it felt like a long ride. That's probably also because the roads were mostly familiar and not too interesting to me. It was a great feeling to finally roll down Boyd's Lane to the old homestead. My odometer read 10,076 km at the bottom of the hill. That includes all my training and about 1,000 km from last year. When I get back to Vancouver, I'll be able to figure out how much of that was since the beginning of the trip.


Now, on to Halifax!


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Sunday, 21 August 2011

Day 56 - Lower Barney's River

Today we bid adieu to PEI and boarded the ferry for my home province of Nova Scotia. Before we got to the ferry, Rick collected this beautiful souvenir off an unfortunate fox on the road:


I must say, it's a nice piece of tail. After the frustration of not finding a "Welcome to PEI" sign, Nova Scotia delivered with this behemoth. If you look closely, you may see a happy Landon in the picture.


Isabel and I, the sightseers of the group, took a short side trip to downtown Pictou, which I had never visited before. It had some nice old buildings and a nice waterfront with a recreation of the ship, Hector, that brought in some of the first Scottish settlers to Nova Scotia in the late 1700's.

From there, we booted it to the campsite. It hit me that I was close to home when we got on the 104, a road I've traveled many times to get to Cape Breton.

At camp, I set up my tent for the last time. As per tradition, the girls got me a parting cake. It said "We'll Miss You Landon". I'll miss them too.


The girls, Chelsea and Nieka, have done a great job under sometimes difficult circumstances. Working a trip like this is no cake walk! Spending this much time with a small group, you get to see a few layers under the surface of people's personalities. We were tired most of the time, physically uncomfortable in various ways, bored sometimes and generally not at our best. We all had bad days, and that manifested in different ways.

Some people would retreat and lose the will to be social. Others might get fixated on certain details that weren't to their liking (e.g. powdered milk). Occasionally there'd be conflict over something trivial like who's turn it was for the shower. This would be a great trip for someone studying human social behavior. Unfortunately, at this point not everyone is talking to each other and I doubt that will change before the official finish in St. John's. I think we've all accepted that now and at the atmosphere is peaceful even if there is some underlying tension. I'll still miss the evenings at the campsite spent eating together and comparing notes about the day's ride - routes taken, animals spotted (dead and alive), people encountered, disasters narrowly averted, etc.

Although this is my last night with the group, I will be riding (and blogging) for three more long days. Tomorrow, to my dad's place in Cape Breton and then two centuries to my mom's place in Halifax.


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Saturday, 20 August 2011

Day 55 - Charlottetown

The day started with a visit from our old friends the mosquitos. Ah, nothing like taking down your tent in a swarm of blood suckers.  A while ago I was thinking of writing a letter to a mosquito.
Dear mosquito,

I sense that you are interested in my blood.  I just thought you should know that the space enclosed by my epidermis is private property and I am authorized to use deadly force on trespassers.  This skin may seem like a nice place to spend some time, and yes, there is some sweet O positive underneath, but are you aware of the advanced defense system protecting it?  These eyes will see you and this hand will smoosh you. It will anihilate you. In a matter of milliseconds, you will not know your proboscis from your postnotum.  Your entire body will be reduced to an unidentifiable smudge.  Your relative mosquitos will live out the rest of their days in grief, wondering whatever happened to you.  Is that really what you want?  Do you still insist on going forward with your suicide mission?  I can't tell you what to do, but hope that this information will help you make an informed decision about your future. 

Sincerely,

Landon
The ride into Charlottetown was great. Here we are rolling towards the Confederation Bridge on the New Brunswick side:

Here are all the bikes being towed over the bridge on a trailer (after unloading the bikes, the driver confided with a coworker that the trailer "shouldn't be on the road"):
In PEI, Isabel and I took the scenic route on smooth roads with little traffic.  Some of it was familiar from my bike trip around the island four years ago.  There were fields of green, yellow and beige, gently rolling hills with the signature red dirt and the Northumberland Straight almost always in sight.  It was the kind of scenery that photos can't really do justice. 



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Thursday, 18 August 2011

Day 54 - Pointe du Chene

From camp, the gang of four headed out on the number 1 divided highway. This started out well with the large paved shoulder we had enjoyed yesterday, but before too long the shoulder disappeared, and with it my peace of mind. Although there wasn't much traffic, it wasn't my idea of a good time. I convinced the others to take the next exit onto a side road and was glad we did. All of a sudden, we could see more than just trees. There were houses, fields, rivers and other non-tree objects. Something to think about besides whether you were about to become a hood ornament on the 18-wheeler approaching from behind.


Owen led the way through the Moncton area since it was his stomping ground for many years. We even rode by his old house outside of Riverview, parts of which he had built with his own two hands. I think Owen's been having a good time through this part of the trip, catching up with family and friends in the area and indulging in his favourite local cuisine: the Pizza Delight super donair.

Through Moncton, we got on the 15, another divided highway, this time with a more shoulder but also more traffic. We made good time but I confess that I didn't enjoy the riding a ton.

At the camp site we had my ultimate meal: salmon (perfect cooked) with grilled potatoes and cauliflower with cheese sauce, followed by strawberry rhubarb pie. It was my second-to-last camp supper and one of the best.

After supper I took a short ride to the beach and dipped my toes in Atlantic salt water. The end is in sight!



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Wednesday, 17 August 2011

Day 53 - Penobsquis

The day started well with a complete breakfast at the UNB dining hall and an easy ride down a bike path to the river. There was a table set up there by the path with a couple of girls handing out free granola bars and drinks. They really treat their cyclists right in Fredericton! Then we crossed the St. John River over this old rail bridge.


Eventually we got on the old Trans-Canada highway that follows the river. This stretch was great because it was flat, we had a tailwind, there was a good paved shoulder and no traffic. The scenery was also quite nice. I know I've driven that stretch of road a few times and it stands out in my mind. It's a shame that the Trans-Canada now bypasses that one scenic part and is now mind numbingly boring through the entire province.

There weren't a lot of services along the road today so most of our food came off our bikes. Around km 50, we stopped for a snack and I ate the Nutellaified english muffin I had snuck out of the cafeteria.


After the river, there were some big hills but with the wind at our backs it was no big deal. We got into camp around 3:30 feeling pretty fresh considering we'd just ridden 135 km.

For me there are only four more riding days left with the tour and I'm sure they'll go quickly. It's going to be pretty weird not seeing these guys every day.


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Tuesday, 16 August 2011

Fredericton Rest Day

I couldn't take it any longer. I quit today. Quit letting my sideburns run free, that is. My intention had been to not trim them until Halifax, but they had become just way too out of control. Here's the before (I poofed them out a bit for dramatic effect):
And the after:
Ahhh... I feel human again!

It's been raining and drizzling all day and I haven't been feeling ambitious.  I just walked a few blocks to Greco to pick up some pizza and garlic fingers with donair sauce.  It was a disgusting meal but comforting in its Maritimeyness. Sorry Fredericton, I'll have a closer look at you some other time.  Today, rest takes priority.

Monday, 15 August 2011

Day 52 - Fredericton

After the intense hills of yesterday, I was ready to join the A team who planned to take a direct route into Fredericton on the Trans-Canada. This saved us about 20 km and smoothed out the hills a lot. Whereas yesterday we would go up steeply for a hundred meters, down steeply for another hundred and repeat, today we would go up a gentle incline for a kilometer followed by a gentle decline. This made it much easier to ride together since there weren't radical accelerations and decelerations happening all the time. Also, the road had about an 8 foot paved shoulder that was in great condition. All this combined with cooler weather made for a much, much easier ride. The only downside was that there wasn't much to look at. Just trees and more trees, as far as the eye could see.


Here we are riding along with Ilan's problematic saddle clicking away. Multiply that by about 500 and you have an idea what the day was like. Ilan, who recently admitted that he "doesn't do well with boredom", resorted to singing 70's classics such as "Comfortably Numb". That was a good description of my state of mind on this day.

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Sunday, 14 August 2011

Day 51 - (how many stocks would a woodstock stock if a) Woodstock (could stock wood?)

This morning I paid the price for yesterday's fun, and the time change didn't help either. It was the typical feeling of inertia after a hard day. I wasn't out of my tent until 7:15, when most of the riders were almost ready to go. Isabel was also a bit behind and waited until I finally got my act together.

In my rush to get into camp last night I failed to get a picture of Grand Falls. We passed the falls again on the way out, so here they are:


We followed the 105 along the St. John River the whole day. You might think that would mean a gradual descent down to the Atlantic but no, in the Maritimes we like our roads lumpy. There were lots of ups and downs which, combined with the stifling heat, made for a pretty tough day even though we weren't pushing hard. I was quite happy to jump into a cold shower after the ride.

A couple of highlights from the ride were passing the McCain headquarters and checking out the world's longest covered bridge. Other than that, there wasn't a whole lot going on along the route.


An interesting fact: there are four separate long distance cycling groups at our tiny campground tonight: two self-supported pairs, the Tour d' Afrique group I mentioned yesterday, and us.


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Saturday, 13 August 2011

Day 50 - (the high climbs, the) Grand Falls

We're in the Maritimes!


This is a big milestone for me as I'm now in the same time zone as my destination. Little hints are popping up that I'm close to home: Kent Building Centres, Irving stations, Greco pizza shops, etc. And we're now seeing both English and French on the signs.

We arrived in Edmuston, a magical land where you too can be swept off your feet by a handsome lad like this one:


Oddly, we couldn't find a Tim Horton's, but we stopped at Subway, which I prefer anyway. There was a very helpful policeman in there who gave us route advice (he's also a cyclist) and escorted us to the tourist information place for maps.

There, we discovered there was a high probability of rain tonight, so I booted it in order to get my wet clothes dried before the showers. It was fun to really give 'er for the first time in a while. I passed another group cycling from San Francisco to St. John's with Tour d'Afrique. It sounds like their tour is quite luxurious and well organized. They also do a 50 day ride through Europe that sounds awesome. Maybe I'll do that one when I retire.

Laundry update: after sitting next to the fire for a couple of hours, everything is dry!


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Day 49 - Saint Marc du Lac Long

I impressed myself this morning when I woke up at 6:30 and was ready to go at 7:45. I think I'm finally getting the hang of the morning routine, just in time for the end of the trip. People are starting to count the days now. For them, there are two weeks left to St. John's. For me, there are 9 days to Cape Breton and 11 to Halifax. For my part, I'm in no hurry for the trip to be over. I suppose my feelings are different because I'm heading into familiar territory. For the others, they are traveling farther away from home so maybe they feel more urgency to get this strange ordeal over with.

The first 48 km was along the river, through vast plains with the occasional drumlin peeking out of the landscape, with an awesome tailwind pushing us along.


Then, things got a little more epic. As we turned the corner to head east, the tailwind turned into a sidewind, the plains turned into rolling hills and the weather turned to rain. The silver lining was that, as the only one without fenders, I was allowed to stay at the back of the group to avoid spraying the others with road sludge from my tires. It's usually a little more relaxing at the back so I got to save some energy.

At around 90 km we came to a small town with a little eatery. I ordered spaghetti and a medium poutine to share with the others. Then the guy showed me the size of a medium, which was about the diameter of a pie plate but deeper, so I downgraded to petit.


The expression on Isabel's face when we were presented with the poutine was priceless. I'm not sure what word describes it best... horror comes close. Regardless, it was quite tasty and excellent cycling fuel.

For me, the drama of the day came at the campsite where I decided to do laundry even though the dryer was out of order. At that time, the sun was beating down on us and I was convinced we'd seen the last of the rain. I couldn't have been more wrong as multiple waves of torrential rains rolled over us. I managed to hang up my clothes for about half an hour between two of the waves, but it wasn't enough to get them close to dry. They're now hanging under our breakfast canopy and I'm looking forward to the commentary on my "intimates" tomorrow morning.

The silver lining in this case (there always is one, you know) was a beautiful double rainbow over the lake. Yes, a DOUBLE rainbow! Unfortunately, I was too busy saving my stuff from the downpour to get a picture. This was later on:



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Thursday, 11 August 2011

Day 48 - Riviere Ouelle

Another day in Quebec, another day following the St. Lawrence north-east, but unlike the previous two riding days, this time we had a strong tailwind pushing us along. Riding at the front of the group was a breeze,exceeding 30 km/h with very little effort. With four of us taking turns, the ride went incredibly quickly. For the first time, all the riders (both groups) arrived at camp before the truck had time to check in.

Mother nature just couldn't make up her mind today. The entire ride we were in the midst of ominous looking clouds and from time to time it would sprinkle, prompting us to put on rain jackets, but it never properly rained.


When we were settled into our campsite, Chelsea put out this little jar of goodness:


Yes, peanut butter filled pretzels. We had them a few weeks ago and I couldn't believe how addictive they were. At first I was repulsed by the idea, but I tried one and just couldn't stop eating them. Isabel tells me the English term for this is "moreish".

Although the rain has mostly held off, it's getting pretty chilly in the tent. For the first time since the rockies, it might be a night for the toque.


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Wednesday, 10 August 2011

Quebec Rest Day

I had one mission for the day: crepes. The last time I was in Quebec city, I was about 10 years old and I think it was the first time I had crepes. The atmosphere of the old town and the deliciousness of the crepes made a lasting impression.

It was drizzling today, but Isabel and I braved the weather and bussed from our hotel across from Universite Laval to the old town.


I have to think that this place is unique in North America for its old world character. The wet streets only heightened the allure.

It's a true testament to the power of this town that I was happy to wander around on an empty stomach, rather than rush to the nearest food joint. We passed no fewer than three Subways but I stayed strong. We found a place with a line out the door and figured it was probably worth waiting for. We were right. I had ham, cheese and mushrooms in crepe numero un, fresh blueberries in crepe numero deux, with a milkshake on the side. Mission accomplished.

After that we wandered around some more and stumbled on a bike shop, which was good because I needed water bottle cage to replace the one I bought in Montreal that broke on the first day of use. Here's a super macro look at the broken part:


If I have the energy, I'll report this to the manufacturer (Tacx). Annoying, but at least I got to try out the new camera's macro mode.
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Tuesday, 9 August 2011

Day 47 - Quebec City

Today we emerged from soaking wet tents and headed out into a chilly, foggy morning. I spent the whole day with the A team and Isabel. I'm now calling our combined force the Gang of Four.

Our route followed the north shore of the St. Lawrence, passing through many small towns with lots of stone houses and churches. I tried to get a picture of the typical Quebecois stone house and this is the best I came up with:


This is the typical result when I try "shooting blind" while riding. Better to keep one's eyes on the road, especially while in a paceline.

Along the way I managed to order a foot long sub at Subway, so I can now rest easy knowing I will be able to keep myself fed in Quebec.

Tomorrow is a rest day in Quebec city. I'm hoping to find a good balance between rest and sight seeing.

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More on Montreal bike paths

As I mentioned yesterday, bike paths can be a mixed blessing.  This story just came out from Montreal today.  A man was killed crossing one of the intersections along the green line, exactly a day after we traversed that same spot.  I remember the signals being confusing at that particular intersection.  We had a red light for no apparent reason since the rest of the traffic was stopped.  Other cyclists were ignoring it and eventually Isabel proceeded, and I reluctantly followed her just as traffic started moving again.  It was one of three times that I felt uneasy or confused along that route.

This was reportedly the third cycling fatality on Montreal Island this year.  My feeling is that they really need to focus in those intersections.  It must be clear what cyclists are expected to do, and those expectations must be reasonable (e.g. going far out of your way to hit a button every time you cross a street is not reasonable).

Monday, 8 August 2011

Day 46 - Trois Rivieres

Getting out of Montreal was gloriously simple, following a bike path (the green line) for the first 40 k or so.


Montreal has really bought into the separated bike path idea. I have mixed feelings about bike paths because they take cyclists out of the consciousness of drivers, until the two worlds collide (sometimes literally) at intersections. In Montreal it seems to work pretty well because the paths can follow the river without crossing many streets, and we certainly saw lots of people using them.

I was proud of myself for putting two French words together today while passing someone "sur gauche". I had been nervous about Quebec but I don't feel so bad for being an ignorant anglophone this time. Maybe it's because as I get older I care less about what others think of me, or maybe it's because I'm in the company of a few others with even less French. It would be a shame to miss out on places like Montreal because of anglo-guilt as it really is a gem of a city.

For today's ride, I started with Isabel and I guess we were making good time because we passed the three musketeers and caught up with the A Team (Ilan and Owen) shortly after leaving the city. The four of us worked together against the headwind for the rest of the day, arriving in good shape after 138 km.

Here's a look at our campsite in Trois Rivieres. Best campsite showers of the trip and (so far) quiet neighbours.



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Sunday, 7 August 2011

Day 45 - Montreal

The ride into Montreal was short and sweet. Our first introduction to Montreal was this fun spiral ramp into Sainte Anne.


Then we followed Lakeshore Road past ritzy houses, and that led us most of the way downtown.

Isabel and I rode together and arrived at the hotel at around 1:30. Fortunately, they were able to check us in early so we could hit the showers and explore a bit. Our rooms at Hotel Le Dauphin were pretty swanky.


Quite a step up from the campgrounds. As we walked around Old Montreal, the sun was searing. Then, a welcome cool breeze rolled in.


It was so refreshing to sit in the breeze along the waterfront, but the breeze brought dark clouds and, soon after that picture was taken heavy rain.

Isabel and I headed back to the hotel in our T-shirts and shorts, occasionally huddling in doorways with groups of other ill-prepared travelers. It was a memorable walk.

After that, I went down the street for Chinese buffet with long-time coworker David, and chewed the fat both literally and figuratively. Thank God for the buffet.


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Saturday, 6 August 2011

Day 44 - Hudson

The day started with a beautiful ride along the canal and on to Sussex Drive in Ottawa.


At 8 am on Saturday, there were hardly any cars on the roads.

I rode with the three musketeers, taking the ferry across the river into Quebec. Finally, we're out of Ontario!


Just like the transition from the prairies, the transition from English to French speaking Canada was sudden. It's a shock to suddenly feel like a foreigner in your own country.

We stopped for some food, and I ordered in half-francais: "Bonjour... Uhhhh.. club sandwich si vous plais" Since I have no idea whether "club sandwich" is masculine or feminine, "uhhhh" would have to do for "un/une". We finished the transaction mostly en englais.

Later on, Ilan and Owen caught up to us and, feeling good, I continued with them. We made good time along the river but it was getting really hot. Eventually, we stopped to get some drinks. Here, I had to do something more complicated than order off a menu (I needed change... changer ca?), so I resorted to "parlez vous Englais?" I'm sure it won't be the last time.

It was a long ride: 164 km in the hot sun, and our last century of the tour.It's all "easier" days from now on.


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